Racing for a Refugio

Today I arrived in Najera.  Gratefully the rain has held off in the day and fallen through the night which deepened the green of the wheat fields and the yellow of the path taking us through them.  Vineyards spread out for miles on either side and red poppies start to punctuate the yellow gorse.  Sadly this scenery is behind me and passing through some modern cities and industrial areas, I really missed all that had gone before.  After two of my longest days of walking (27 kms and then today 30 kms) I am now 595 kms from Santiago.  The day starts quite early because it is essential to get going as there is a bit of a race to the refugio to get a bed.  Later in the day it becomes much harder as I found out yesterday in Logrono and this is where trust comes in.  Logrono has very elaborate Easter celebrations and the whole town was jumping last night which seems a bit weird since it was Good Friday but there was a procession through the streets with men carrying crosses and Jesus on the cross, it was quite amazing but there was no room at the inn and Carmel from Australia called everywhere in town and the report from each was "completo".  It would be easy to panic but we found ourselves at a hostel run by the church where overflow mattresses were spread over every available surface. I think the priest took pity on two old broads and showed us a room that I think was his with two single beds.  Brilliant.  There is a huge difference in the feeling and energy of the refugios that are run by volunteers or the church and those that are run for profit.  The spirit of the Camino is so much more evident in the former.  Little bits of grace come every day if I pay attention.  The little man at the market in Estella who charged me 1 euro for 2 oranges and 2 bananas and then handed me my change on a free tangerine and the people who appear just when I need them.  This is the Camino.